ELLYHIKES

With so much to see and do on the Big Island, here’s how to make the most of your short vacation.

The Big Island is a place unlike anything I have ever experienced. Sprawling lava fields turn from jungle to beach, and there is truly something new to experience around every turn. Because of this, planning a four day itinerary is no easy task. 

Summary

Follow along on our map here!

Day One: Kona, Pololu Valley, Akaka Falls, Hilo

Getting Around

Our trip to the Big Island started early, when we caught the 6am flight from Honolulu to Kona. We saw the sunrise over the islands and the summit of Mauna Kea sticking through the clouds. In order to get around, you will need to rent a car – this is how you will make the most of the trip, as many must-see activities are scattered around the island. If you plan to visit the summit of Mauna Kea, make sure you rent a car with 4-wheel drive. 

Kona 

We landed in Kona at 730am and quickly got through the airport as we had nothing but backpacks and our tent. We passed a small cafe with a line out the door and knew we had to stop for a cup of the famous Kona coffee. The shop was called HiCo, and their specialty was a purple Ube latte. 

Pololu Valley

From Kona, we began the drive through the lava fields up Highway 19 towards Pololu Valley, which becomes Highway 270 after the fork in Kawaihae. This is a stunning drive on the coastal highway with the sprawling ocean to your left and mountains on the right. The road becomes quite narrow and winding as you head up into the hills, and you pass through several local towns with small shops and cafes. You will also pass through Kohala, which is the town where King Kamehameha was born. Once at the lookout, there was the option to hike down to the black sand beach at the bottom, however we did not have time. On your way back, stop at Fresh Off the Grid for lunch; poke nachos or a fresh smoothie.

Highway 250

The drive to Akaka Falls was almost as stunning at the park itself. From Pololu, you will take HIghway 250 towards Waimea. This drive will transport you to a totally different environment, with rolling hills and cows around every turn. As you descend into Waimea, you will see Parker Ranch, at over 130,000 acres, it is one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States. 

‘Akaka Falls State Park

Once in Waimea, you will begin the hour drive to ‘Akaka Falls. No longer lava fields, nor rolling hills, the drive south on Highway 19 is a lush jungle with breathtaking views around each corner. The turn off to ‘Akaka Falls is in Honomu, and the park closes at 8pm. The trail to ‘Akaka Falls is an easy 30 minute loop or a paved walkway. It costs $5 per person and that money goes towards the maintenance of the park. You will pass through thick jungle, bamboo shoots and sprawling views of the valley before turning a corner and seeing the nearly 450 foot waterfall. Seeing ‘Akaka Falls was mesmerizing, and one of the highlights of our trip. 

Krishna Cow Sanctuary

On our way back towards the highway, we saw a sign that read “Cow Cuddling, this way”. It turned out to be a small, family owned cow sanctuary nestled in the hills. For $20, you could spend as much time as you like petting and cuddling with the cows. The owner and his kids were very welcoming, and explained each cow’s individual personality. Petting baby cows in a lush, green Hawaiian valley was a once in a lifetime experience. 

Hilo

By the time we were through with the cows, we headed into Hilo to find some dinner. Hilo is a unique place; having been devastated by a tsunami in 1960, the town is rich in history, and many historic buildings still stand there today. On the night that we were in town, there was a pop-up event at the Hilo Farmers Market. We got grilled beef tacos from one of the local vendors and some shave ice for dessert. After eating, we wandered around the waterfront area and saw one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip. 

Makoa Kabin

Our accommodation for the night was in Pahoa, so we set off in the dark to find our tiny cabin in the woods. We found Makoa Cabin on airbnb and could not have been more thrilled with the find. Nestled deep in Pahoa, our little cabin had everything that we needed, including a beautiful outdoor bathroom and looked out into the trees. At night, the sound of frogs and birds filled the air, and we stepped out onto the deck to take in one of the fullest sky of stars we had ever seen. Massive plants and flowers shot up from every angle and we spent the morning exploring the property with a cup of coffee.

Day Two: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Kilauea Lodge

Before heading into the National Park, we stopped in at Kilauea Lodge in Volcano Village for breakfast. The lodge was built in the 1930s at a YMCA camp, and has since become a historical site.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Start off at the Visitor’s Centre and grab a map and some stickers. From there, we did Crater Rim Drive around the Kilauea Crater. This will give the best views of the Caldera, you may even see smoke rising or lava depending on how recently it has eruption. Our next stop was Thurston Lava Tube, carved out of the rock and beautifully lit with an orange glow, this mini hike is a must see. Our main hike of the day was the Kilauea Iki and Crater Rim Trail, a 5.1km loop that takes you around the crater and then down into it, to walk across the crater floor. This easy hike was one of the most memorable that I have ever done. 

Whittington Beach Park

That night we camped at Whittington Beach Park, we set up our tent in the dark under the palm trees and a full moon. Although there were facilities at the campsite, they were not in the best condition and full of spiders. However, the campsite gate locked at 8pm and felt safe and secure. We fell asleep to the sound of the waves on the rocks and woke early to see the sunrise through the palm trees above. 

Day Three: Punalu’u Beach, Papakolea Green Sand Beach

Punalu’u Bakery

We got an early start to day three, taking our tent down quickly and making our way to Punalu’u. First stop was the famous Punalu’u Bakery, known for their sweet bread and Haupia Pies. If you are planning to make a stop here, make sure you get there early, as the line can be long. 

Punalu’u Black Sand Beach

Punalu’u Beach is a must see on the Big Island. The dark sand sits in stark contrast against the sun and the flowing palm trees around it. The beach is a popular tourist spot, and was pretty crowded when we were there. The thick black sand is volcanic dust that has been broken down over millions of years and if you look closely, you can see small green and yellow crystals mixed in. Punalu’u Beach is also a popular nesting place for green sea turtles, an endangered species. The lifeguards take special care to make sure that any sea turtle nesting grounds are roped off and tourists are kept away. 

Papakōlea Green Sand Beach

Papakolea Green Sand Beach was the highlight of our 4 day trip to Hawaii. The trailhead is at the farthest southern part of the Island and is about a 20 minute drive from the highway. The hike to the beach is a flat 4 km journey with some of the most stunning views I have ever seen. You will cut through sandy dunes along the side of the ocean as cows graze in the field beside you. The beach comes out of seemingly nowhere, the cliff opens up and you see the spanning green sand and rock below you. 

There are only 4 green sand beaches in the world, in Guam, Galapagos, Iceland and Hawaii. Since the beach is only accessible by hike (or a local in a pickup truck that you can pay) the sand was quiet and only a few other people sprinkled the sand as the sun began setting. This beach would be my top recommendation for the island, and I wish we had more time to spend. We hiked back in the glow of the sunset and made it to the car just as the last bit of light faded. 

Wawaloli Beach Park

The drive from Papakolea to Wawaloli is substantial, but we wanted to get back to Kona so that we could get an early start up the volcano in the morning. Wawaloli Beach Park is in a perfect spot, but make sure you get there before 8pm, when the campsite gate is closed.

Day Four: Beach Hotels, Mauna Kea Summit

First thing in the morning, we returned our rental car and picked up a Turo. In order to go up Mauna Kea, you need four wheel drive, and this will be checked by a park ranger. We picked up our Turo at the Kona Airport and headed North. 

Hapuna Prince & Mauna Kea Beach Hotels

After a few nights of sleeping on the ground, we decided to treat ourselves and sneak into the Mauna Kea / Hapuna Prince resort and spend a few hours by one of the many pools. Both resorts are architectural wonders, and I would have loved to stay at either of them. After a walk on the beach, we got back on the road, feeling refreshed. 

Mauna Kea

If you plan to drive to the top of Mauna Kea, make sure you leave yourself plenty of time. Not only is it a long drive up, but you must spend a minimum of an hour and half at the midpoint in order to adapt to the massive elevation change, or else risk getting altitude sickness. The summit sits at almost 14,000 ft, and the midstation at 7000 ft. We packed our lunch and ate it at the picnic tables outside, while drinking plenty of water to combat altitude sickness. When we had been there almost 2 hours, we began the climb. A park ranger showed us how to put our car in 4WD M3 mode, which puts the stress on the engine rather than the brakes when you come back down. 

We drove up slowly, stopping several times as we began to get dizzy, lightheaded and our hands turned slightly blue. Eventually, with plenty of water and patience, we made it to the top and it was worth every second. There are several observatories at the top, all owned and operated by different countries and institutions. With the whole summit to ourselves, we checked out the views and went into several of the observatories. The landscape was unlike anything that I had ever seen before, it felt like we were walking on the moon. If you have the time and capacity, Mauna Kea summit is a once in a lifetime experience. 

Flight Home

After slowly making our way down from the summit, we headed to the airport and got on the last flight back to Oahu, leaving the Big Island amazed and in awe, knowing we would be back very soon.

If you choose to visit, remember to always remain respectful to the people and to the land.